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A Toronto Family of Six Just Revived a 128-Year-Old Building’s Boozy Legacy

The Comstock Building has seen more bars come and go than almost any address in downtown Toronto. Built in 1898, the space has cycled through a long list of breweries and gathering spots since the late 1980s — Denison’s, the Strand, Duggan’s, Beer Academy, Batch — a run of turnover that would make most restaurateurs think twice. Matthew McGrath saw the vacant building and a rare opportunity instead.

House of McGrath, the family-run restaurant, brewery, and social house now occupying the space, is a genuine family affair: Matthew and his wife Michele co-own the venture alongside all four of their children, including eldest daughter Victoria, who serves as VP of Operations and contributed directly to menu development and business strategy. The two-storey space leans hard into the neighbourhood’s brewing history — the Victoria Brewery, founded just down the street in the 1840s, eventually became part of the Molson Coors empire — while Michele led a full transformation of the interior, drawing on materials sourced from city archives to recreate a Financial District that feels lifted from the 1920s.

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Upstairs, the focus is refined, seasonal dining: think herb-roasted duck confit and a vegan mushroom wellington, paired with house-brewed beer crafted by brewmaster Jeff Kurkowski using traditional methods like decoction mashing and open fermentation. Downstairs, the vibe shifts toward a buzzier social space, complete with pool tables, live entertainment, and rooms available for private events. The food itself draws on generational European cooking with a distinctly Toronto twist — Matthew’s Irish Catholic background meeting Michele’s Brazilian roots means feijoada and Irish beef stew can both show up on the same menu without feeling out of place.

Looking for a spot built to last through more than one season? House of McGrath is open now at 75 Victoria St.

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